Leighton House
Things are generally much better today that they were in the late 1800s, but you’ll have a hard time convincing contemporary artists of that fact if you take them to visit Leighton house. This was no ‘struggling artist’ residence. Filled with extravagant decor, artefacts from all over the world and architectural folly, the house has more in common with the Royal Brighton Pavilion than it does a typical Victorian home.
Frederic Leighton was an eminent British artist of the late 19th century and President of the Royal Academy of Arts for over 18 years. In 1864 he acquired an empty Kensington plot and commissioned George Aitchison, a Professor of Architecture at the Royal Academy, to design what was initially a modest residence and home studio. Leighton then continued to extend and embellish the building up until his death in 1896. From the multi-story Arab Hall filled with tiles from Damascus to the large scale reproduction of Michelangelo’s famous ‘Creation of Adam’ fresco that hangs in the stairwell, it quickly became evident that this was a home of somebody who was artistic and eccentric, not just monied. Queen Victoria herself commented that “His house and studio charmed me immensely” and it was frequently written about in the press.
Visiting the house today, which has been faithfully restored and filled with furnishings similar to the ones owned by Leighton, you will notice quirky architectural details everywhere. The house was continuously enhanced over the course of 30 years so there’s no real sense of overall cohesion but there is an easy flow from room to room thanks to overly generous openings and passageways. They make it easy to spot visual eye candy such as the peacock in the stairwell, a bubbling water fountain, the mish-mash of patterned tiles and Persian rugs everywhere. Some are simply bonkers examples of extravagance with no practical excuse for being, but there are many clever elements that are not as obvious. Look for the giant vertical door in the studio that enables large canvasses to be easily removed. Or the three working fireplaces each situated beneath a window. Where are the chimneys? Smoke was extracted via horizontal flues hidden beneath the windowsills.
Another thing you might notice is the prevalence of works made by Leighton himself. This was an unexpected treat. Most historical artist residences are devoid of their namesake’s works since they’re already hanging in various museums and national galleries. Not here. A huge selection of Leighton’s work is spread throughout the home, including notebooks, prints, sketches, watercolours, and over 80 oil paintings. Not only will you see exactly how he lived and worked, but you get a thorough overview of his artistic range.
In additional to Leighton’s works you’ll see hints at the type of art that Leighton collected and proudly displayed, including Rembrandt etchings, a Tintoretto and a Murano glass chandelier. These works, in addition to the overly decorative wallpaper and soft furnishings, are what make the entertaining and studio spaces the most interesting aspect of the tour. Most of these rooms look like a pre-digital Pinterest page, filled with an eclectic mix of notable artists, miscellaneous objects d’art and exotic items sourced from his foreign travels. They are displayed now just as they were then: to inspire and engage both Leighton and his guests.
The experience also gets top marks when it comes to modern practicalities. There are plenty of handouts in each room that provide detailed information about the artworks and furnishings you’ll find, with extensive additional content and audio guides on the free Smartify App. I particularly liked the opportunity to double back to see things twice, which you’ll definitely want to do before your tour ends. All the support facilities like cafe, gift shop, toilets, etc are housed in a separate building adjacent to the main residence, and a giant backyard with gloriously lush green grass beckons you outside on a sunny day.
Plan your visit
📍12 Holland Park Road, London W14 8LZ
Nearest tube stations: Kensington (Olympia), High Street Kensington
Tickets from £14 adult / children under 6 free / discounts and concessions available
Visit rbkc.gov.uk/museums/leighton-house and follow @leightonsambournemuseums on Instagram for more info about the venue.
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